Featured Wine Weekend
22 February 2004

2000 Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains – opens with some creamy oak in the nose, but that fades after a few minutes, leaving mineral aromas and wisps of citrus zest. Bright and lively in the mouth, leading with zippy acidity, flavors of minerals and subtle citrus, and some nice creamy vanillin on the back end. I think the flavors have closed down a bit since I last tasted it, and will begin to emerge with another year or two of bottle age.

2001 Zinfandel Buchignani Ranch – 76% Zinfandel 23% Carignane 1% Petite Sirah 14.3% alcohol 46 barrels produced. The Zinfandel block is approximately five acres, and was planted in the 1940s and 50s by Stan Buchignani’s grandparents. He still lives on the property.

Very pretty and focused fruit aromas that lean toward red plum and Bing cherry – dusty and somewhat muted zinberry flavors on the palate with some smooth tannins right up front – a nicely structured and balanced medium weight wine, but I think I would give it another year in the cellar before I opened one to drink.

2000 Zinfandel Llewelyn – 81% Zinfandel 17% Carignane 2% Petite Sirah 15.1% alcohol 47 barrels produced – a bit muted in the nose at first, but with some swirlitude, it gives up sweet, almost candied zinberry aromas that are reminiscent of some of the Paso Robles bottlings. Very nice flavors in the mouth in a prettily ripe package – smooth tannins hit up front, and the wine finishes a bit short right now – it also needs a year or two in the cellar – I’m sure it will get better.

2000 Lytton Springs – 80% Zinfandel 20% Petite Sirah 14.5% alcohol – for the first time, Ridge put the selection percentage of this wine on the back label – 18 separate parcels were fermented in 34 different lots – 70% of the wine went into the final blend – one third of the barrels were either new or one year old – bottling occurred twelve months after harvest.

Lovely aromas of perfectly ripened Zinfandel with added bottom notes from the healthy proportion of Petite Sirah – just beautiful in the mouth with a very nice but not overpowering intensity and a very attractive texture – this is not a "blockbuster" of a Lytton Springs, but this is your ‘go to’ Lytton while you’re waiting for your 99 and 01s to come around. This wine could be enjoyed tonight, but will age effortlessly for five more years, quite possibly longer.

2001 Zinfandel Nervo – 95% Zinfandel 5% Carignane 14.9% alcohol 41 barrels produced – ripe, jammy plum aromas with hints of exotic spice – well structured and substantial in the mouth without becoming too dense or ponderous – good acid balance and ripe tannins carry the wine quite nicely – it’s medium to full bodied and well balanced, but still needs at least two more years in the cellar.

2000 Zinfandel Paso Robles – 100% Zinfandel 14.5% alcohol – all Dusi fruit, of course – quite lovely in the nose, with brighter spectrum aromatics that tend towards red plum and cherry with additional pleasing high tone spice – ripe and pretty in the mouth with some smooth upfront tannins that are not intrusive – I would give it a little more time in the cellar, but there is no reason it could not be enjoyed tonight with grilled or braised fare.

1995 Geyserville – 62% Zinfandel 18% Petite Sirah 15% Carignane 5% Mataro 14.2% alcohol – This bottling marked the thirtieth vintage of Geyserville. I’ve only opened two or three from my case, and this is the first time I’ve read the back label carefully. Paul includes in his notes something that we’ve been saying for quite a long time: "Typically awkward in its first year".

Well, it’s certainly not awkward today.

The nose features plummy fruit with a sunbaked character along with hints of dried porcini mushroom and spice – very nicely balanced in the mouth – there are still some tannins that need to resolve. I had actually hoped the wine had evolved and hit its stride, but it is being a little stubborn climbing the last few steps to its peak. This is a wonderfully balanced Geyserville, but has not as yet fully integrated, as judged by this sample.

And I think I’ve been saying that for the last three years. This is a wine that will mature on its own schedule – it does not help to be impatient. This will be a "classic" Geyserville, and actually, its slow progress towards optimal drinking, for me, is a good indicator of its potential for long age.

califusa
Left Coast Correspondent
Gang of Pour